Black Moustache

Baan Dam (or Black House); A Masterpiece of The Most Extraordinary

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"Black house or Baan Dam is a masterpiece of the most extraordinary that must not be missed in Chiang Rai. Weird, creative, unusual, surreal, provocative, creepy are descriptions easily applied to Baan Dam. If the white temple is better known for giving a description of heaven, Baan Dam is full of death. Like Yin and Yang, Baan Dam as Yin and White Temple as Yang. Both are actually a museum or masterpiece from artists from Chiang Rai, their works do not represent religious structures, although the white temple looks like wat (Thai for temple). Where the white temple symbolizes a pure perfection, while Baan Dam rejoices in melancholy primitivism."

Baan Dam, or in Thai, Baan which means home and Dam which means black. Baan Dam is a museum of contemporary art that is the work of art from a Thai artist named Thawan Duchanee. The Baan Dam project was started around 1975 by Duchanee and he also lived in several houses in the area and turned it into a work of art studio. Baan Dam was more or less built around 35 years old consisting of 40 building complexes, mostly made of dark teak wood and surrounded by beautiful gardens. Inside are various collections consisting of paintings, sculptures, wood carvings, furniture, silver and gold items, and animal bones and skin. Around 40 houses were built in various shapes and sizes, both from wood, concrete, brick, and terracotta, most of them black.

The spacious gardens around Baan Dam are decorated with a variety of unique constructions that are the work of a masterpiece from this Thai architect, such as white capsules, African sculptures, traditional home designs fro various architectural styles mixed in Asia, rock gardens , as well as other abstract designs. The main cabin is decorated with various kinds of dead animals, such as cow horns, stuffed animals, animal skins (bears, wolves, snakes, crocodiles, etc.). It has been assumed that they are dead before being exposed. Access to some places is allowed, but some are also covered by glass and a barrier for viewing.


According to some opinions, Baan Dam with the remains of animals and other works represents suffering on Earth, sickness and death. This is more about the darkness of humanity and hell. But it needs to be underlined, the artist does not intend to make a hellish temple, but rather to show off the results of his masterpiece. There are indeed many who denounce or dislike this place, but it is not easy to understand the true meaning of this work of art if seen at a glance, maybe that is actually the purpose of Baan Dam, to provoke the curiosity of visitors, to surprise visitors, and enjoy and interpret the actual work of this art. Apart from that, I think Baan Dam is a place that you should visit, both for you lovers of art, or just to look around and take pictures because I can say that the buildings here are all very aesthetic to be a photo place which is certainly very different from hundreds the temple you visited in Thailand.


When you go through the main entrance and set the tone for what visitors get and expect as they explore other parts of this place. Looks very traditional and elegant from the outside, a combination of honey-colored teak wood and the unique design of the impressive doors will impress you after entering the main entrance. Long snake skin to create the most unusual table runner you will ever see. The inside of the large hall is interspersed with animal skulls and buffalo horns and this theme is continued in other buildings. 


A glimpse of the architectural style of the Baan Dam building which is a mixture of styles from Lanna, Laos and Southeast Asia both traditional and modern. There are many variations of style; a number of intricately carved wooden buildings built in the traditional Lanna style; some structures resemble white igloos. The main building is a very large and dark teak house with a traditional northern style. The main theme of Baan Dam is "the darkness of the human heart". You will also find themes from Buddhism such as death and birth, rebirth or birth cycle, aging and decay. Another theme is suffering caused by human desires, represented by large phallus in several houses.



How to visit Baan Dam?


Baan Dam is about 10 kilometers from downtown Chiang Rai. Not far from Chiang Rai Airport, you can go directly to Singha Brewery Company Limited on the left and turn left at Soi 1. Go straight ahead about 3 kilometers to reach Baan Dam.


There are several options for reaching Baan Dam. If you don't have your own transportation, you might be able to book a trip from anywhere, both travel agents in Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai. The value will range depending on whether you want to go as a joint or private tour. Usually a joint tour often combines Baan Dam and White Temple, but your time in each place is also limited so if you don't want to rush, it's better to arrange a private tour or manage your own transportation.



Another most convenient way is to use a metered taxi, the price of the tuk tuk depends on how you bid. Round trip from downtown Chiang Rai including waiting times will reach 400 to 500 Baht. Make an agreement on the price and time during the trip before entering the taxi.


Baan Dam is located on 414 Baandam Nanglae Moo 13 Tumbol Nanglae, Mueang, Chiang Rai, 57100 Thailand. Baan Dam also accessible for wheelchair. Baan Dam is open daily from 9 a.m to 5 p.m, ticket counters close for lunch between 12 noon and 1 p.m. Entrance fee is 80 Baht per person. There are plenty of parking lots opposite the front door where you will also find souvenir shops, food stalls, and coffee shops.


Thawan Duchanee
As mentioned the man behind this dark museum is Thawan Duchanee. Born in 1939 in Chiang Rai. Duchanee got a Ph.D in metaphysics and aestetics from the Royal Academy of Visual Arts in Amsterdam, Netherlands. He first took his studies at the Poh Chang Art Academy in Bangkok before continuing to study under italian painter Corrado Feroci.

According to information Duchanee was a student of Chalermchai Kositpipat, the person who created the White Temple, adn the Kositpipat was a student of Duchanee. I also read that both are freelance artist and have never taught a day in their lives. Whatever it is, they tend to be united; One creates a vision of Heaven, while the other creates a version of hell.

In 2001, Duchanee was Officially praised as a Thai National Artist, but his controversial style was not always popular. "Some of the work initially shocked the conservative Thai state and accusations of not respecting Buddhism resulted in several people physically attacking his paintings" Thaizer reported.

Prominent figures in Thai society, including former prime minister Kurkit Pramoj, fight for Duchaness's work. This helped artist print contracts to paint murals at a number of Thai embassies, and leading Thai companies to assign work from him to be displayed at their headquarters.

Duchanee combines various elements of traditional Burmes, Tibetan, and local Lanna Thai art to create its own distinctive style.

At the end of his life, he was bald at the top and wore a long, flowing snow white beard , evoking the stereotype of the wise old man.

He died in 2014 at the age of 74. His unique legacy lives in the Baan Dam Museum.

pics from google 

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